Forza Sassuolo!

One of the things that I have enjoyed the most about my time in Italy so far is attending Serie A soccer matches. Simo, Luigi, and I, along with some other friends, have season tickets to Sassuolo games, and every other weekend or so we drive just 35 minutes to Mapei Stadium to watch the home games. Sassuolo was promoted to Serie A this year for the first time in the club's history, so their main goal for the season is to remain in Serie A. The Italian soccer system, and that of most European countries, is based on a system of relegation and promotion. Serie A is the highest league in Italy, with Serie B, C1, C2, etc. below. And at the end of each season, the top three teams from each league are promoted (they move up a league) and the bottom three teams are relegated (move down a league) Unfortunately, playing well enough to remain in Serie A is proving to be a difficult task; Sassuolo currently sits only 1 point above the relegation zone.

Night Game vs. Udinese

Watching Serie A matches live is unlike anything you can experience in the US, and in many ways unlike watching soccer in other European countries. Mapei Stadium isn’t huge (20,000 person capacity), but it’s big enough to create a great atmosphere during the games. Our seats are located around midfield about half way up the stadium. The Sassuolo “Ultras”, the hardcore fans, stand behind one goal and the visiting fans stand behind the other.  The Ultras for both teams really charge the atmosphere during the games. They sing and chant throughout the game, sometimes urging their team on, sometimes mocking the other team or even the other team’s fans. Though I haven't had any negative experiences with the Italian Ultras, Ultras in general can get out of hand. They've been known to throw flares on the field, tear up seating, or cause other havoc. 

Another contributing factor to the atmosphere, and one that is especially pertinent in Italy, is the presence of "everyday fans". Though there are other fathers and sons at the games, the Italian fans aren’t for the most part like Luigi, Simo, and me. There are a lot of middle-aged and older men in the stands who seem like they've been attending games since they were kids, and who believe that they understand soccer better than anyone including the coaches and people around them. They are constantly yelling at the players to make better passes and stop messing up. They also love to yell at the referee. Though yelling at the referee isn’t unique to Italy, the fans have an infamous and special hatred for them. I can’t remember the last game where the ref wasn’t whistled at and called names.

Another aspect of these games that is unique to Italy is the fog. Whereas England, Germany, and France may have to worry about the snow during their games, in Italy, you have to worry about the winter fog. It sweeps into the stadium, and just sits above the field, creating a rather eerie ambiance. The fog this week was particularly thick; for a good portion of the second half, it was impossible to see the other side of the field or any of the other stands in the stadium.
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As for the soccer itself, it’s an interesting and for the most part, enjoyable experience. As I mentioned before, Sassuolo isn't a very strong side and the team doesn’t win very often. Watching their games is like spinning the wheel of fortune, you just don’t know what you're going to get. The team lost 7-0 to highly ranked Inter and 4-1 to newly promoted side Livorno at home, yet they tied very strong teams including Lazio, Roma, and Napoli. Though this unpredictability can be at times frustrating, I enjoy being a fan of a smaller side. I've spent my whole life rooting for Manchester United in the English Premier League, hoping each season they can defend their title. It is refreshing to have different goals and see what life is like for a team and their fans from the other half of the table.

The next home game should be exciting against Fiorentina, one of the strongest teams in the league!